Friday, December 16, 2011

12/12 to 12/16 | Class and the Galilee: Haifa, Acre, and Nazareth

After a busy week of class, Ariel, Matt and I headed north to the Galilean cities of Haifa, Acre, and Nazareth.  On Thursday afternoon, we took a bus up to Haifa, where we transferred to get to Acre.  Acre is in an incredible city with thousands of years of history dating back to biblical times.  Today, it is best known for its Crusader ruins, especially the citadel and city walls that ring the Old City.  It is especially nice because it sits right on the Mediterranean Sea, so it boasts an impressive marina filled with boats of all sizes.  The city is also known for its mosques, which dot the skyline with huge domes and towering minarets.  In fact, Acre is home to the Jezzar Pasha Mosque, which is the largest in Israel next to Al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem.  The whole city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, named for its incredible diversity and culture.

The path we took from Jerusalem to Haifa, then from Haifa to Acre, and then from Acre to Nazareth and back again.

Acre has a mixed Arab-Jewish population, which is unusual in a country where the two groups tend to live in separate towns.  Even so, the communities do not seem to mix much as Arabs make up the majority of the population inside the Old City walls while the Jews predominantly live in the newer parts of the city outside of the walls.  Ariel, Matt, and I spent a lot of time walking the winding city streets and were quite shocked: the city was empty.  Except for a few locals, there were no other tourists and everything seemed to close up early.  It was an eery feeling and we did not quite understand it, but the views were incredible and it was enjoyable nonetheless.

As night set in, Ariel headed back to Jerusalem, but Matt and I decided to stay in order to see Nazareth in the morning.  We walked around the newer parts of the city before coming back to do some night exploring of the Old City.  As we walked in, we saw a police car race by and two policemen jump out towards nothing.  Even eerier than last time!  This time, though, the city was even emptier and we got very lost before someone pointed us in the right direction.  We found a place for dinner and sat for a while before going out again.  When we were done with dinner, we headed to our hostel early in order to be well-rested for the next day.

 A view of the Crusader-era walls from the entrance of the Old City.

 The silhouette of the Jezzar Pasha Mosque, which is the largest in Israel outside of Al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem.

 Ariel and I in front of the marina.

"The essence of Israel."

On Ottoman-era clock tower.

 An incredible view of the Mediterranean Sea.  At the far left is the tip of Haifa.

 A minaret and decorative piece at the entrance of the Jezzar Pasha Mosque.

In the morning, Matt and I set out for Nazareth.  After a long wait at the bus stop, we headed onto a bus that took us all over the Galilee before arriving in Nazareth.  Here are some pictures from our journey around northern Israel:

 Some funky street art: a shark made of bottles.

 An old Arab cemetery in the village of Tamra.

 An Arab village in the Galilee.  Arab towns can be spotted by their minarets.

 An ornate minaret on a mosque.


A pastoral view in the Galilee.

When we finally arrived in Nazareth, we were surprised to find a city covered in Christmas decorations!

The entrance to the Nazareth Christmas Market. 

Signs welcomed Christian tourists in several different languages. 

 Me in front of a giant Christmas tree in one of Nazareth's squares.

Nazareth is a really unique town: a Christian city with a Muslim population in the Jewish state.  Matt and I felt surprisingly comfortable here; the roads were pleasant and the views were amazing.  This is the place where Jesus founded his ministry, so there are a lot of Christian churches all over the city.  We decided to visit two of the main sites: the Church of Saint Gabriel and the Basilica of the Annunciation.

 The top of the Church of Saint Gabriel, which the Greek Orthodox believe to be the site where the angel Gabriel appeared to Mary to announce the coming birth of Jesus.

 The lower church, which leads to Mary's Well.  Pilgrims from all over the world were lined up to pay their respects.

A wall painting of Jesus and his followers.

 A very offensive sign next to the Basilica of the Annunciation.  The sign says, "'And whoever seeks a religion other than Islam, it will never be accebted [sic] of him, and in the Hereafter he will be one of the losers.' - Holy Qur'an"  It is a testament to Israel's tolerance that it would allow such garbage on display.


Mary, in front of a fountain, basking in the shadow of a palm tree.

 The front of the Basilica of the Annunciation, which Roman Catholics believe to be the location of Mary's house.  This is the largest church in Israel.

 The center of the church.

 The upper level of the church.

A nativity scene in the church.

When we were done in Nazareth, Matt and I took a bus back to Haifa.  From Haifa, we transferred onto the last bus to Jerusalem.  Our trip was only two days long, but we saw and experienced a lot!  With only three weeks left, I am making sure to take advantage of every weekend.  These past two days were no exception.

 A view of Haifa on the Carmel mountain range.

A view from Haifa.

 A Haifa suburb.

The Mediterranean Sea from the coast of Haifa.

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