10/27 | The Tomb of Shimon HaTzadik and a Walk Around Mea Shearim

Today after class, Steven, our new roommate Matt, and I went to explore the ultra-Orthodox neighborhood of Mea Shearim.  Mea Shearim is one of Jerusalem's oldest neighborhoods and is inhabited by an insular Haredi community that shuns the outside world.  Plastered on many of the buildings are signs warning tourists to dress modestly and to avoid congregating in groups so as not to offend the residents.  The neighborhood has been compared to a modern-day shtetl, where everyone is required to wear a kippah because strict observance of Jewish traditions is the standard.  I was here last for kapparot during Yom Kippur, but we did not really get a chance to explore, so this was my chance to check out the world-class Judaica, cheap clothing, etc.

As we rode the light rail to Shivtei Israel, the stop closest to Mea Shearim, we passed the Shimon HaTzadik stop, where we noticed many religious Jews congregating.  Letting the curiosity get the best of us, we headed towards the Shimon HaTzadik neighborhood adjacent to the less-than-safe Arab neighborhood of Sheikh Jarrah.  Shimon HaTzadik is named after the tomb of Simeon the Just, a Jewish High Priest during the time of the Second Temple.  Its location serves as a point of contention because the Arabs claim it as their own, so the police were out in force as everyone swarmed towards the grave, located in a cave.  We soon found out it was the yahrtzeit of Simeon the Just, meaning it was the anniversary of his death.  As we walked through a sea of black hats and wigs, we came to the entrance of the cave and saw hundreds of Jews paying their respects.  It was quite a site!  Here are some pictures from our journey to the tomb of Shimon HaTzadik:

The beginning of our adventure was met with an awe-inspring view over Ammunition Hill, the site of one of the fiercest battles of the 1967 Six-Day War.

The mass of Orthodox Jews at the entrance to the Shimon HaTzadik neighborhood.

There was a strong police presence throughout the Shimon HaTzadik neighborhood.

There was a parade of people marching to and from the tomb.

The women's section outside of the tomb of Shimon HaTzadik, or Simeon the Just in English.

This mosque, located in Shiekh Jarrah, is only a few feet away from the entrance to the tomb of Simeon the Just.

Shimon HaTzadik is not too far from Mea Shearim, so we walked the rest of the way when we were done at the tomb.  Mea Shearim is packed with stores selling everything related to Judaism and Jewish tradition.  Judaica shops are next to bookstores are next to tallit venders are next to kosher restaurants; any and everything thing an observant Jew could need can be found in Mea Shearim.  After doing a bit of shopping (I didn't buy anything), we stopped for dinner at a falafel restaurant.  Afterwards, we continued shopping until we had seen enough.  Then, Steven and I headed to Ben Yehuda Street before heading back home to the Student Village.

Occasionally, the Breslov chasidim ride through various neighborhoods in their vans blasting music meant to make people happy.  Rebbe Nachman of Uman, Ukraine once said, "It is a great mitzvah to be happy always."  Graffiti that says, "Na Nach Nachma Nachman MeUman" can be found all over the country in memory of the great rebbe, who died in 1810.

A busy street in Mea Shearim after dark.

The falafel restaurant we ate at had pictures of famous Jewish figures all over the walls.

What looks like a large Santa Claus converted into an Orthodox Jew at a tallit store.

The Museum on the Seam is across from the Shivtei Israel light rail top.  This museum is unique because it is located where Mandelbaum Gate used to sit between the seam line separating Israeli West Jerusalem from Jordanian East Jerusalem.  The building still bears countless scars of war including broken arches, bullet holes, and peeling paint.

On the Museum on the Seam is a sign that says, "Olive trees will be our borders" in Hebrew, Arabic, and English.  It is a nice wish, but those days seem to be a long ways off.